During the early 19th century the Kings Cross-Potts Point area was one of Sydney's most prestigious suburbs, being far enough to escape the noise and smell of the central city but close enough for easy travel. An additional attraction was the commanding harbour views to the east and north and (from some points) views to the west as far as the Blue Mountains.
In the early 1800s the Governor of NSW granted several large estates to favoured subordinates and leading businessmen. They built a series of grandiose mansions with sprawling gardens of up to ten acres (40,000 m²). The remnants of these gardens helped give the area of its leafy character, and many of the mansions are commemorated in street names, such as Kellett Street.
Most of the grand estates were ultimately subdivided with all but a handful of the great houses demolished. One of the surviving estates is Elizabeth Bay House, a quintessential example of Australian colonial architecture.
Kings Cross is probably the next best known tourist attraction in Sydney after the Harbour Bridge and Opera House.
Ten minutes from the city in light traffic, it is Sydney's main nightspot for visitors who enjoy the fleshier side of life. Kings Cross was originally named Queens Cross because it was a major crossroads.
The name was changed to avoid confusion with Queens Square - quite probably because the politicians and lawyers in that area did not want to be associated with a 'sleazier' part of town. Kings Cross is not technically a suburb.
Turn left off William Street into Darlinghurst Road and you are in the main street of The Cross. It offers a choice of strip clubs, bars, cafes, restaurants and fast food outlets mixed in with the local supermarket, delicatessen, chemist and other shops for the large number of people who live in the area.
The Cross is a heterosexual playground. It is well policed and there's rarely more trouble than a few drunks having a fight. Sydney's gay and lesbian territory is around Oxford Street at Darlinghurst, and easier reached from Hyde Park.
Strip clubs in the Cross leave nothing to the imagination, but are otherwise fairly dark and down at heel. Burly 'bouncers' at the entrance will tell you if there is a cover charge. Some let women in free. Simple spirit drinks and beers are not too expensive. They are pretty harmless.
Sex aside, the Cross has plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars. The Bourbon and Beefsteak, which is the best known and open all night, sprang up to cater for American servicemen on leave in Sydney during the Vietnam War. It always has good live bands in the main bar playing middle of the road music, has a disco, a restaurant, plenty of memorabilia, and is generally crowded. It is a popular spot for a late Sunday breakfast with the newspapers - which Australians call brunch.
The Bourbon and Beefsteak is at the end of Darlinghurst Road where it joins Macleay Street, just by the El Alamein fountain which spouts water in the shape of a huge and delicate dandelion. The small park which surrounds it hosts a craft and old junk market on weekends.
Several other restaurants have tables outside where you can sit and watch the passing parade. Kings Cross has a completely different feel in daylight with a distinctly village atmosphere and locals going about their business.
There are several major hotels in the Cross with even more restaurants and bars, so you are not likely to go hungry or thirsty. Some of the better restaurants are in or just off Macleay Street - Thai, Indian, Japanese and 'modern' Australian.
Macleay Street runs downhill to the harbour and a major Royal Australian Navy base, Garden Island. There are generally several warships moored almost by the side of the road, and the Navy often has ships open for inspection. There are tours of Garden Island.
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